Tag: How-To

  • Make This: Avocado Seed Pendant

    Photos and Tutorial by Christie Sommers

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    If your household goes through as many avocados as mine, you may have thought “there must be something I can do with all these pits!” (cue exasperated infomercial actor). Well there is! In fact there are a few things you can can do with them. I will walk you through two options over the course of this,and my next, tutorial for Art Star. In this tutorial, I will show you how to make a hand carved pendant, and later this month I will show you one way to turn the carving scraps and pit skins into a natural dye. So save those scraps!

    You will need:

    Pic 1

    *Hass avocado pits (at least two)

    *Xacto blade or other carving tools. No experience necessary! I have no “official” carving training aside from a brief period of self taught printmaking. Just proceed with caution, these tools are sharp! You can get creative with items in your kitchen or toolbox. Use a Phillips head screwdriver for “x” shapes, metal skewers for dots, drag a fork for perfectly spaced lines…. you get the idea.

    *a drill or Dremel for making holes

    *a length of rope or string from which to hang your pendant (I used waxed cotton cord, hemp works well too)

    You will need to allow your your seeds to dry out for at least 3 days before carving. No more than around 2 weeks or they will shrivel up and solidify, making them very difficult to carve.

    Avocado seeds are dicots. Simply put, they are in two parts. You need to find the natural split that separates the two sides. If you don’t split them prior to carving, they will split on their own later.. most likely straight through your nice design. I learned this one the hard way.

    After your seed has dried for a few days, peel the outer layer of skin away and set skin aside.

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    Pinch the seed between your thumb and forefinger until the natural split begins to appear.

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    You may need to stick a flat head screwdriver into the split to pry them apart, otherwise just get a finger in there to separate.

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    You now have two halves… two potential pendants.

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    Start by deciding where you would like to drill the hole for your string. Don’t go too close to edge if you want to avoid unwanted cracks.

    Drill a hole through the seed being careful not to press too hard, let the drill do the work. Too much pressure may cause the seed to split where you don’t want. You may have to go through a few practice seeds to get a feel for it.

    Start carving! You can lightly scratch designs into the seed with a pencil first as a guide.

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    For this tutorial I carved one pendant with a little mountain landscape, one that was inspired by mud cloth designs, and lastly a pendant with a more simplistic organic shape. I tried to make the drilled hole an intentional part of the design.

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    String your new pendant onto your rope/string and tie in the back at your desired length.

    If you’d like to give your pendant a nice finish, try wiping with a cloth that has been lightly dipped in mineral oil.

    Now throw those seed shavings and skins into a ziplock bag and toss them in your freezer until next time when I share a way to turn those scraps into a natural dye.

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com

  • Make This: Cold Brew Infused Water

    Photos and Tutorial by Christie Sommers

    I don’t know about you, but when it’s this hot out I need something refreshing to drink and anything sugary or sweet is just no good. Here’s a little cold brew herbal tea recipe to enjoy all summer long, and you don’t have to heat up your kitchen to make it.

    Photo 1 Photo 2

    You will need:
    *a large pitcher or jar
    *spring or filtered water
    *fine mesh sieve or cheesecloth
    *large wooden spoon
    *clean scissors or herb snips
    *fresh herbs (suggested combos listed below). Anyone can grow fresh herbs, whether you have a garden or sunny window ledge. I highly recommend buying a potted herb plant over the prepackaged cut herbs from your grocery store for the obvious reason that you get more out of a living plant. They are very easy to care for. The more you cut and use them, the healthier and more abundant they will be. Packaged fresh herbs are fine if you’re really not a plant person.

    Start by cleaning your herbs well. Let them soak in a bowl of cold water for a bit and swish them around to remove any soil. Rinse.

    Place herbs in pitcher.

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    Bruise herbs with the wooden spoon to release the oils from the leaves. You basically just smash them with the spoon.

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    *The more herbs you use, the stronger the tea will be. Because we are cold brewing, your tea will be very subtle. If you prefer stronger tea, add a cup of boiling water now and let steep for about 5 minutes before adding your cold water to fill.

    Fill the rest of your container with spring/filtered water and place in your fridge. Let steep overnight. The longer it steeps, the more flavor your water will have.

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    You can filter out the herbs when you pour yourself a glass or just leave ’em in there if you don’t mind snacking on them;)

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    Your tea will keep for about a week in the fridge.
    Enjoy!

    Some herbs/combinations to try:
    Lemon Balm & Rosemary (used for this tutorial)
    Lemon Thyme
    Mint
    Chamomile & Lavender
    Hibiscus & Raspberry Leaf
    Ginger & Basil

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com

  • MAKE THIS: 3D Geometric Wrapping Paper

    Photos + Tutorial by Bonnie Kaye Whitfield

    It takes just a few extra minutes to turn your gift into a conversation piece. Here’s a super simple tutorial to create fun 3D Geometric shapes on the top of your package for the next upcoming summer party you attend.

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    You will need:

    box to wrap
    colorful tissue paper
    brown kraft paper
    cardboard or chipboard
    scissors
    exacto knife
    self-healing mat
    tape
    pencil

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    Gather your materials. Grab whatever tissue paper and solid wrapping paper you have on hand.

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    First, wrap your packages in the tissue paper.

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    Put your packages aside and begin to draw and cut out simple geometric shapes out of your cardboard or chipboard. Keep your shapes small, under 1” in any given direction.

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    Next, cut a sheet of your solid wrapping paper, large enough to wrap your package for a second time. Place your package in the middle of the sheet and trace around the edges of the box.

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    Grab your cut out shapes and begin to trace HALF of the shape within the outline of the box. For example, if you cut out a circle, only trace half of the circle. You want to make sure that half or at least one side of your shape stays connected to the wrapping sheet. Play around with patterns and arrangement with your shapes.

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    Using an exacto knife, carefully cut along the lines that you traced.

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    Place your box inside the outline that you originally traced and now wrap your package with the wrapping paper. Flip the box over and carefully fold back all your cut shapes. (Tip: I like to use the blade of my exacto knife to help get under the cut slits. Makes for easier grabbing and folding of the paper.)

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    Now you can go wow all your friends at your next birthday/babyshower/wedding!!

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    Bonnie Kaye Whitfield designs and screen prints home textiles + paper goods under the name, Bonnie Kaye Studio. Products are created to inspire memories at home and around the table. A donation is made with every purchase to help feed hungry Americans.

    www.BonnieKayeStudio.com

  • Make This: Mini Knotted Planter

    Tutorial and Photos by Christie Sommers

    hanging planter

    This mini planter is great for 3″ terracotta pots or even planted votive holders…no candles!!
    It makes a great little handmade gift… quick & easy!

    Photo 2You will need:
    *scissors
    *yard stick or tape measure
    *brass ring (can be purchased at AC Moore in the knitting/macrame section…OR you can just use a key ring.
    *16 feet of rope. I am using parachute cord in this tutorial but hemp, cotton rope, or even twine works well.
    *you will need something to provide resistance as you tie knots. Duct tape, a wall hook, a coat rack. You’ll see what I mean below.

    Start by cutting the rope into 4 pieces, each 4′ long
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    Gather the 4 strands and fold in half.
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    Tie the rope to the ring with a larks head knot.
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    Tighten the larks head knot.
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    Tape down your ring. You will need a bit of resistance when you are tying your knots to simulate the weight of the plant. This will help you to line up your knots properly. You can also use a wall hook or even tie it to your shoe… if you are sitting down;)

    Separate the strands into 4 groups of 2 as shown.
    4 strands

    Working from left to right, measure down 6″ and tie your first two strands into a knot that falls 6″ from the larks head knot as shown.
    seperate
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    Continue from left to right tying knots 6″ from top as shown.
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    Separate again into 4 as shown
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    You will now tie together one strand from 1 and one strand from 2
    continue with 2 to 3, and then 3 to 4 (tie this row of knots about 3-4″ below the last row of knots)
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    You will notice that there is one untied strand at the beginning and end (1 and 4)
    Tie these two together with the knot lining up with the last round to complete the circle.
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    Gather all strands again into one hand
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    Tie into one large knot
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    Pop a 3″ terracotta pot or any small pot/votive holder into your new knotted planter and enjoy!

    PLANTS ONLY! NO FLAMES!
    just had to say it….you never know these days;)

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com
  • Make This: Fabric Storage Bins

    by Christie Sommers 

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    I have way too many “things” in little piles all over my workspace. It was time to do a little organizing so I made some storage bins and bowls in various sizes to store loose buttons, bobbins and more. They have really brightened up the place so I’d like to share them with you:)

    You will need:

    -a pencil compass
    -scrap paper
    -fabric (one outer and one liner)
    -fusible interfacing (you want something very rigid, I recommend Pellon Decor Bond Fusible)
    -an iron/ironing board
    -a sewing machine
    -scissors
    -ruler

    You will need to draft up a little pattern for this one. I made a bin that was 6.5″ in diameter and 4.5″ high. To figure out how long to cut your rectangular pieces you will need to break out the calculator… or your brain. To find the circumference of your base, multiply the diameter by 3.14. The circumference will be the length of your rectangular sides.
    In my case: 6.5″ diameter x 3.14= 20.14 ….
    Use this calculation to make your bin in any size.

    OR….

    You can just use my dimensions and make the same sized bin.

    Cut:
    (3) rectangles: 21″ long by 5″ high (1) liner, (1) outer, (1) interfacing
    (3) circles with 3.25″ radius (1) liner, (1) outer, (1) interfacing

    1 2 3 4 5

    You will iron on the interfacing to the backside of the outer fabric.
    Take the shiny adhesive side of the interfacing and line it up to the back of your outer fabric.
    Iron on holding firmly for 6 seconds to establish a good bond.
    Do the same for the circular outer fabric.

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    Now you will sew the side wall (rectangular piece) to the base (circular) for both the liner and the outer fabric.

    Pin as shown.

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    Straight stitch the liner wall to the liner base

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    Do the same for the outer wall and base making sure to place the fabric “right” sides together, right side being the printed side that you want to see on the outside when the bin is done.

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    Line up your two ends of the rectangular piece and stitch up the side wall. Trim

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    You should have two pieces now (liner and outer) that look like this….

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    Cut into the seam allowance around the base so that the basket sits evenly when assembled. Take care to not cut into your stitching.

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    Turn the liner inside out and fit (right sides together) into the outer piece.

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    Line up your seams and pin all the way around

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    Sew all the way around leaving a small section about 1.5″ unsewn. You will turn the whole bin right side out through this hole.

    When you turn it right side out, use your iron to get all of your seams looking nice and clean.
    I liked how it looked with a little of the liner as a trim at the top.

    Top stitch all the way around and be sure to carefully seal the opening with your top stitch.

    Toss in some sewing notions, or whatever bits you need to wrangle and enjoy!

    16 17

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com
  • Christie’s Hand Stitched Bowl Tutorial

    Photos + Tutorial by Christie Sommers

    Photo 1
    You will need:
    -cotton clothesline
    -quilting needle (you can use a regular sewing needle with a thimble but a larger quilting needle is best for passing through the thick clothesline)
    -embroidery thread, yarn, or string in color of your choice
    -scissors

    Photo 9
    Thread the needle with colored string of choice and tie a knot at the end.

    Use as much thread as you can manage. No more than 3′ should suffice. You can tie more thread on when you run out.

    Start by coiling the clothesline between two fingers as shown.

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    Insert the needle into the center of the coil passing through the layers of rope and exit as shown.

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    We will be using a blanket stitch for this project. Wrap your working thread behind the needle from right to left.

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    Bring the thread back over the needle from left to right and pull the needle through.

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    Repeat going around in a circle, entering in the center, until you reach the first stitch.

    If you want a bowl with a wide flat base, you can continue the flat blanket stitch going around a few more times until the base is as wide as you like.

    Photo 3
    At this point you will be rounding up to give your bowl a curved shape.

    To achieve this, you will be inserting the needle straight through the clothesline from front to back rather than from the center out. See pic.

    Photo 4
    Continue with the blanket stitch inserting the needle through the clothesline from front to back until your bowl is as large as you like.

    You will most likely run out of stitching thread as you are working. To add more, tie a new 3′ length of thread to the tail of the previous working thread. Place the ends together as shown and tie in a knot.

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    For the next few stitches, Insert the needle Between the coils instead of through the rope until your knot is hidden.

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    Once you pass the knot, continue stitching through the rope until you reach the desired bowl size.

    Tie off your working thread and then snip the clothesline, You’re done!

    As you can see from the next photo, the placement of your stitches will determine the design of your bowl. For the black bowl, I spaced my stitches out and staggered with each layer, essentially placing new stitches between the stitches on the previous level. For the red bowl, each new stitch was placed right next to the previous level’s stitch.  Play around with stitch placement to see what you can come up with.

    Photo 8
    Enjoy!

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com

     

     

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