Tag: make this

  • Make This: Avocado Seed Pendant

    Photos and Tutorial by Christie Sommers

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    If your household goes through as many avocados as mine, you may have thought “there must be something I can do with all these pits!” (cue exasperated infomercial actor). Well there is! In fact there are a few things you can can do with them. I will walk you through two options over the course of this,and my next, tutorial for Art Star. In this tutorial, I will show you how to make a hand carved pendant, and later this month I will show you one way to turn the carving scraps and pit skins into a natural dye. So save those scraps!

    You will need:

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    *Hass avocado pits (at least two)

    *Xacto blade or other carving tools. No experience necessary! I have no “official” carving training aside from a brief period of self taught printmaking. Just proceed with caution, these tools are sharp! You can get creative with items in your kitchen or toolbox. Use a Phillips head screwdriver for “x” shapes, metal skewers for dots, drag a fork for perfectly spaced lines…. you get the idea.

    *a drill or Dremel for making holes

    *a length of rope or string from which to hang your pendant (I used waxed cotton cord, hemp works well too)

    You will need to allow your your seeds to dry out for at least 3 days before carving. No more than around 2 weeks or they will shrivel up and solidify, making them very difficult to carve.

    Avocado seeds are dicots. Simply put, they are in two parts. You need to find the natural split that separates the two sides. If you don’t split them prior to carving, they will split on their own later.. most likely straight through your nice design. I learned this one the hard way.

    After your seed has dried for a few days, peel the outer layer of skin away and set skin aside.

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    Pinch the seed between your thumb and forefinger until the natural split begins to appear.

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    You may need to stick a flat head screwdriver into the split to pry them apart, otherwise just get a finger in there to separate.

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    You now have two halves… two potential pendants.

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    Start by deciding where you would like to drill the hole for your string. Don’t go too close to edge if you want to avoid unwanted cracks.

    Drill a hole through the seed being careful not to press too hard, let the drill do the work. Too much pressure may cause the seed to split where you don’t want. You may have to go through a few practice seeds to get a feel for it.

    Start carving! You can lightly scratch designs into the seed with a pencil first as a guide.

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    For this tutorial I carved one pendant with a little mountain landscape, one that was inspired by mud cloth designs, and lastly a pendant with a more simplistic organic shape. I tried to make the drilled hole an intentional part of the design.

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    String your new pendant onto your rope/string and tie in the back at your desired length.

    If you’d like to give your pendant a nice finish, try wiping with a cloth that has been lightly dipped in mineral oil.

    Now throw those seed shavings and skins into a ziplock bag and toss them in your freezer until next time when I share a way to turn those scraps into a natural dye.

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com

  • Make This: Quick + Easy Matte Medium Transfer

    Photos + Tutorial by Bonnie Kaye Whitfield

    Here’s a quick and simple image transfer for using matte medium and a photocopy of an image. It’s a helpful trick for adding layers of imagery to mix media works of art. On the other hand, it can also be a beautiful way to create a piece for your home or a friend that encapsulates a memory or person.

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    You will need:

    photocopy of image to transfer / copy in reverse if it matters to the image
    thick paper, canvas, or wood to use as background
    matte medium
    foam brush or wide brush
    old plastic card or brayer
    container for water
    sponge (optional)
    hair dryer (optional)

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    Gather your materials. Make a photocopy or laser print of your image that you want to transfer. You need the toner in the paper, so an ink jet print will not work. I recommend starting with a small image the first time you try this process.

    Depending on your design or what you want to make, if you want a background to your image then you’ll want to do that first. Go crazy, if you like, with painting a simple background using paint or ink washes. Let the background dry completely.

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    Cut out the image that you want to transfer, removing any excess paper. Using a foam brush, brush on matte medium on the frontside of the entire image, using a smooth and thick coat. Foam brushes are ideal since they don’t leave many streaks, but any brush can work.

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    Flip the image over onto your background. Use a brayer or old plastic card to smooth out the image and make sure that it has solid contact to the background. Any air bubbles may result in small areas of the image not being transferred. Let dry completely. Feel free to use a hairdryer to speed up the process.

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    Once the image dries (the paper will turn opaque again), grab your water container and sponge. Slowly use a damp sponge (or your finger) and work in a small circular motion to begin to remove the paper backing. This might take a while so put on a good podcast or your favorite Netflix show.

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    Try to work slowly, but if some of the transfer rubs off, it will just add to the rustic quality of the image. You’ll likely need to repeat this process a few times. As the image dries, any fibers that are not rubbed off will continue to cloud the image. Once you get the image to your satisfaction, give the image a top coat of matte medium to seal it.

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    Bonnie Kaye Whitfield designs and screen prints home textiles + paper goods under the name, Bonnie Kaye Studio. Products are created to inspire memories at home and around the table. A donation is made with every purchase to help feed hungry Americans.

    www.BonnieKayeStudio.com

  • Make This: Cold Brew Infused Water

    Photos and Tutorial by Christie Sommers

    I don’t know about you, but when it’s this hot out I need something refreshing to drink and anything sugary or sweet is just no good. Here’s a little cold brew herbal tea recipe to enjoy all summer long, and you don’t have to heat up your kitchen to make it.

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    You will need:
    *a large pitcher or jar
    *spring or filtered water
    *fine mesh sieve or cheesecloth
    *large wooden spoon
    *clean scissors or herb snips
    *fresh herbs (suggested combos listed below). Anyone can grow fresh herbs, whether you have a garden or sunny window ledge. I highly recommend buying a potted herb plant over the prepackaged cut herbs from your grocery store for the obvious reason that you get more out of a living plant. They are very easy to care for. The more you cut and use them, the healthier and more abundant they will be. Packaged fresh herbs are fine if you’re really not a plant person.

    Start by cleaning your herbs well. Let them soak in a bowl of cold water for a bit and swish them around to remove any soil. Rinse.

    Place herbs in pitcher.

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    Bruise herbs with the wooden spoon to release the oils from the leaves. You basically just smash them with the spoon.

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    *The more herbs you use, the stronger the tea will be. Because we are cold brewing, your tea will be very subtle. If you prefer stronger tea, add a cup of boiling water now and let steep for about 5 minutes before adding your cold water to fill.

    Fill the rest of your container with spring/filtered water and place in your fridge. Let steep overnight. The longer it steeps, the more flavor your water will have.

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    You can filter out the herbs when you pour yourself a glass or just leave ’em in there if you don’t mind snacking on them;)

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    Your tea will keep for about a week in the fridge.
    Enjoy!

    Some herbs/combinations to try:
    Lemon Balm & Rosemary (used for this tutorial)
    Lemon Thyme
    Mint
    Chamomile & Lavender
    Hibiscus & Raspberry Leaf
    Ginger & Basil

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com

  • Make This: Fabric Storage Bins

    by Christie Sommers 

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    I have way too many “things” in little piles all over my workspace. It was time to do a little organizing so I made some storage bins and bowls in various sizes to store loose buttons, bobbins and more. They have really brightened up the place so I’d like to share them with you:)

    You will need:

    -a pencil compass
    -scrap paper
    -fabric (one outer and one liner)
    -fusible interfacing (you want something very rigid, I recommend Pellon Decor Bond Fusible)
    -an iron/ironing board
    -a sewing machine
    -scissors
    -ruler

    You will need to draft up a little pattern for this one. I made a bin that was 6.5″ in diameter and 4.5″ high. To figure out how long to cut your rectangular pieces you will need to break out the calculator… or your brain. To find the circumference of your base, multiply the diameter by 3.14. The circumference will be the length of your rectangular sides.
    In my case: 6.5″ diameter x 3.14= 20.14 ….
    Use this calculation to make your bin in any size.

    OR….

    You can just use my dimensions and make the same sized bin.

    Cut:
    (3) rectangles: 21″ long by 5″ high (1) liner, (1) outer, (1) interfacing
    (3) circles with 3.25″ radius (1) liner, (1) outer, (1) interfacing

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    You will iron on the interfacing to the backside of the outer fabric.
    Take the shiny adhesive side of the interfacing and line it up to the back of your outer fabric.
    Iron on holding firmly for 6 seconds to establish a good bond.
    Do the same for the circular outer fabric.

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    Now you will sew the side wall (rectangular piece) to the base (circular) for both the liner and the outer fabric.

    Pin as shown.

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    Straight stitch the liner wall to the liner base

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    Do the same for the outer wall and base making sure to place the fabric “right” sides together, right side being the printed side that you want to see on the outside when the bin is done.

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    Line up your two ends of the rectangular piece and stitch up the side wall. Trim

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    You should have two pieces now (liner and outer) that look like this….

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    Cut into the seam allowance around the base so that the basket sits evenly when assembled. Take care to not cut into your stitching.

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    Turn the liner inside out and fit (right sides together) into the outer piece.

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    Line up your seams and pin all the way around

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    Sew all the way around leaving a small section about 1.5″ unsewn. You will turn the whole bin right side out through this hole.

    When you turn it right side out, use your iron to get all of your seams looking nice and clean.
    I liked how it looked with a little of the liner as a trim at the top.

    Top stitch all the way around and be sure to carefully seal the opening with your top stitch.

    Toss in some sewing notions, or whatever bits you need to wrangle and enjoy!

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com
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