Tag: West Oak Design

  • Announcing 4 Pop Ups at Art Star!

    We will be hosting an in-store Pop Up with 4 of our local Art artists: Le Puppet Regime, Wild Hart Paper Co, Stanley Chester & Albert, and West Oak Design. These ladies will each be setting up mini shops in our back gallery space from January 23rd – March 13th. This is an excellent chance to shop each artists’ full collection of goods all in one place!

    Promo blogThese mini shops will be set up by each individual artist, so you can expect a branded display that reflects each of their personal aesthetics. This gives us an oppurtunity to really spotlight these 4 customer favorites!

    Le Puppet Regime: Stained Glass Marionettes and Jewelry
    Wild Hart Paper Co: Stationary, Wrapping Paper, Prints and Home Goods
    Stanley Chester & Albert: Pottery
    West Oak Design: Clothing, Bags, Jewelry, and Home Goods

    We will be hosting an opening reception to debut the Pop Ups on January 23rd from 5-8pm. Stop by to mingle with the artists, enjoy light refreshments and get first dibs on new products and designs!

    Be sure to keep checking back in, as each artist will be restocking as their items sell!

  • Upcoming Exhibition + P.O.S.T Event!

    We are excited to be participating in Philadelphia Open Studio Tours again this year! We have some fun things that we have cooked up for you on October 3rd all day at Art Star (11-7pm)

    1. Opening of “Tastes Like Broken Dreams” a solo show by Brooklyn based painter, Mauro Baiocco.

    Postcard Image2Mauro’s first solo exhibition at Art Star will feature a charming array of “Naughty but Nice” animal portraits. Yeah they may look cute and innocent on the surface but these cuddly animals have issues. The show will feature an all new collection of acrylic and ink paintings of Mauro’s cynical and bitter cast of furry friends. We will be celebrating the opening all day long during shop hours. Come ready to day drink with us, as we’ll have a boozy beverage or two to offer guests! Can’t make the opening? No worries, the show will be up in our gallery space through November 22nd.

    2. Trunk Show / Make + Take with Christie Sommers of West Oak Design

    Christie Stamp Make + TakeArt Star artist and regular blog contributor, Christie Sommers of West Oak Design will be set up with a collection of her latest designs for you to shop. She will also be providing a FREE DIY Stamp Make + Take all day long!

    Guests can make a wood block stamp perfect for hand printing fabric, or creating your own stationary. Cut your desired shape out of foam sheets and mount to wood blocks. A variety of paper + stamp pads will be on hand for testing out your creation. Christie will provide instructions and everything you need to make your own one-of-a-kind stamp that you can take home for free!

    No registration is required. Just come on by and get to craftin’! Did I mention boozy day drinks?

    3. Pop Up Studio with illustrator, Julia Lemyre
    Julia Lemyre Pop Up StudioIf you have stopped by our shop on a Saturday this summer, chances are you met our employee, Julia! Well, she is not only a super awesome shop helper, she is also an incredibly talented illustrator. She will be bringing along a selection of her original works and prints for you to peruse and shop.

    Like I said, all this is FREE to attend and no registration is required. Bring some friends and come hang out with us! We will be open from 11-7 and can’t wait to see you!

     

  • Make This: Avocado Seed Dye Tutorial

    Photos and Tutorial by Christie Sommers

    In my last tutorial, I showed you one way to carve avocado seeds to make a pendant necklace. Today I will show you how to turn those failed attempts and carving scraps into a dye suitable for dying natural fibers like wool and cotton.

    This is a simplified method that will result in a subtle, warm pink/rust color. If you are looking for deeper color saturation, or if you require colorfast results for fabric that must hold up through multiple washing, you will need to use a mordant. I’m keeping it simple and will be using my dyed fabric to make zip pouches.

    You will need:
    – avocado seeds, carving scraps from last tutorial (I used about 2 cups)
    – 4 cups of filtered water
    – 100% natural fabric or yarn (synthetic fabrics will not hold the dye without a mordant) I used a half yard of 100% cotton fabric. As with any newly purchased fabric, you should give it a run through the wash.
    – fine mesh sieve
    – a bowl or container large enough to hold dye and fabric. Stainless steel is great for this, plastic will stain.
    1

    To make your dye:
    Bring 4 cups of water to a boil, add avocado seeds and scraps. Cover lightly.
    Boil for at least 30 minutes. *note… the seeds have an astringent, cedar wood smell. You may want to crack a window or use the oven fan.
    I let my seeds sit in the water overnight in attempt to pull out as much color as possible. You can skip this step if you’re feeling impatient.

    2When you are ready to dye:
    Put your fabric into a pot and cover completely with tap water. Bring to a boil and let simmer for 5-10 minutes. This should strip away anything clinging to the natural fibers… (like soap residue or oils) and make it more susceptible to absorbing and holding dye.

    3

    Remove fabric from water and set aside

    Pour your dye through a fine mesh sieve to remove all seeds and bits. Submerge fabric into dye and let sit for at least 30 minutes. The longer it steeps, the deeper the resulting color.
    For a color gradient effect, try submerging your fabric for 10 minutes, pulling it out of the dye bath a few inches every hour for a few hours. I fully submerged a few pieces of fabric and tried a gradient effect with the others.

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    After dyeing:
    Taking note that your fabric will fade when it dries, remove fabric from dye bath when you have reached a desired depth of color.  Allow your fabric to air dry.

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    After your fabric has completely dried, rinse it in cold water. Let dry again, and your fabric is ready to use!

    Here’s a little color chart to show the results I got from rinsing in cold water once, and placing the other in a full laundry cycle.

    7

    When I removed my gradient dyed fabric from the dye bath, I was really happy with the result. There was a bit of sediment in my dye which clung to the fabric creating a marbled effect that I loved. I decided to frame that one without giving it a rinse.

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    You can save your dye liquid in a sealed jar in the fridge for up to one week.

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com

     

  • Make This: Avocado Seed Pendant

    Photos and Tutorial by Christie Sommers

    pic8

    If your household goes through as many avocados as mine, you may have thought “there must be something I can do with all these pits!” (cue exasperated infomercial actor). Well there is! In fact there are a few things you can can do with them. I will walk you through two options over the course of this,and my next, tutorial for Art Star. In this tutorial, I will show you how to make a hand carved pendant, and later this month I will show you one way to turn the carving scraps and pit skins into a natural dye. So save those scraps!

    You will need:

    Pic 1

    *Hass avocado pits (at least two)

    *Xacto blade or other carving tools. No experience necessary! I have no “official” carving training aside from a brief period of self taught printmaking. Just proceed with caution, these tools are sharp! You can get creative with items in your kitchen or toolbox. Use a Phillips head screwdriver for “x” shapes, metal skewers for dots, drag a fork for perfectly spaced lines…. you get the idea.

    *a drill or Dremel for making holes

    *a length of rope or string from which to hang your pendant (I used waxed cotton cord, hemp works well too)

    You will need to allow your your seeds to dry out for at least 3 days before carving. No more than around 2 weeks or they will shrivel up and solidify, making them very difficult to carve.

    Avocado seeds are dicots. Simply put, they are in two parts. You need to find the natural split that separates the two sides. If you don’t split them prior to carving, they will split on their own later.. most likely straight through your nice design. I learned this one the hard way.

    After your seed has dried for a few days, peel the outer layer of skin away and set skin aside.

    Pic 2

    Pinch the seed between your thumb and forefinger until the natural split begins to appear.

    Pic 3

    You may need to stick a flat head screwdriver into the split to pry them apart, otherwise just get a finger in there to separate.

    Pic 4

    You now have two halves… two potential pendants.

    Pic 5

    Start by deciding where you would like to drill the hole for your string. Don’t go too close to edge if you want to avoid unwanted cracks.

    Drill a hole through the seed being careful not to press too hard, let the drill do the work. Too much pressure may cause the seed to split where you don’t want. You may have to go through a few practice seeds to get a feel for it.

    Start carving! You can lightly scratch designs into the seed with a pencil first as a guide.

    Pic 6 Pic 7

    For this tutorial I carved one pendant with a little mountain landscape, one that was inspired by mud cloth designs, and lastly a pendant with a more simplistic organic shape. I tried to make the drilled hole an intentional part of the design.

    pic 9 Pic 10 Pic 11

    String your new pendant onto your rope/string and tie in the back at your desired length.

    If you’d like to give your pendant a nice finish, try wiping with a cloth that has been lightly dipped in mineral oil.

    Now throw those seed shavings and skins into a ziplock bag and toss them in your freezer until next time when I share a way to turn those scraps into a natural dye.

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com

  • Make This: Cold Brew Infused Water

    Photos and Tutorial by Christie Sommers

    I don’t know about you, but when it’s this hot out I need something refreshing to drink and anything sugary or sweet is just no good. Here’s a little cold brew herbal tea recipe to enjoy all summer long, and you don’t have to heat up your kitchen to make it.

    Photo 1 Photo 2

    You will need:
    *a large pitcher or jar
    *spring or filtered water
    *fine mesh sieve or cheesecloth
    *large wooden spoon
    *clean scissors or herb snips
    *fresh herbs (suggested combos listed below). Anyone can grow fresh herbs, whether you have a garden or sunny window ledge. I highly recommend buying a potted herb plant over the prepackaged cut herbs from your grocery store for the obvious reason that you get more out of a living plant. They are very easy to care for. The more you cut and use them, the healthier and more abundant they will be. Packaged fresh herbs are fine if you’re really not a plant person.

    Start by cleaning your herbs well. Let them soak in a bowl of cold water for a bit and swish them around to remove any soil. Rinse.

    Place herbs in pitcher.

    Photo 3

    Bruise herbs with the wooden spoon to release the oils from the leaves. You basically just smash them with the spoon.

    Photo 4 Photo 5 Photo 6

    *The more herbs you use, the stronger the tea will be. Because we are cold brewing, your tea will be very subtle. If you prefer stronger tea, add a cup of boiling water now and let steep for about 5 minutes before adding your cold water to fill.

    Fill the rest of your container with spring/filtered water and place in your fridge. Let steep overnight. The longer it steeps, the more flavor your water will have.

    Photo 7

    You can filter out the herbs when you pour yourself a glass or just leave ’em in there if you don’t mind snacking on them;)

    Photo 8 Photo 9

    Your tea will keep for about a week in the fridge.
    Enjoy!

    Some herbs/combinations to try:
    Lemon Balm & Rosemary (used for this tutorial)
    Lemon Thyme
    Mint
    Chamomile & Lavender
    Hibiscus & Raspberry Leaf
    Ginger & Basil

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com

  • Make This: Mini Knotted Planter

    Tutorial and Photos by Christie Sommers

    hanging planter

    This mini planter is great for 3″ terracotta pots or even planted votive holders…no candles!!
    It makes a great little handmade gift… quick & easy!

    Photo 2You will need:
    *scissors
    *yard stick or tape measure
    *brass ring (can be purchased at AC Moore in the knitting/macrame section…OR you can just use a key ring.
    *16 feet of rope. I am using parachute cord in this tutorial but hemp, cotton rope, or even twine works well.
    *you will need something to provide resistance as you tie knots. Duct tape, a wall hook, a coat rack. You’ll see what I mean below.

    Start by cutting the rope into 4 pieces, each 4′ long
    Photo 3

    Gather the 4 strands and fold in half.
    Photo 4

    Tie the rope to the ring with a larks head knot.
    Photo 5 Photo 6 Photo 7 photo 8

    Tighten the larks head knot.
    Photo 9

    Tape down your ring. You will need a bit of resistance when you are tying your knots to simulate the weight of the plant. This will help you to line up your knots properly. You can also use a wall hook or even tie it to your shoe… if you are sitting down;)

    Separate the strands into 4 groups of 2 as shown.
    4 strands

    Working from left to right, measure down 6″ and tie your first two strands into a knot that falls 6″ from the larks head knot as shown.
    seperate
    photo 10

    photo 11

    Continue from left to right tying knots 6″ from top as shown.
    photo 12

    Separate again into 4 as shown
    photo 13

    You will now tie together one strand from 1 and one strand from 2
    continue with 2 to 3, and then 3 to 4 (tie this row of knots about 3-4″ below the last row of knots)
    Photo 16

    You will notice that there is one untied strand at the beginning and end (1 and 4)
    Tie these two together with the knot lining up with the last round to complete the circle.
    Photo 17

    Gather all strands again into one hand
    Photo 18

    Tie into one large knot
    Photo 19photo 20

    Pop a 3″ terracotta pot or any small pot/votive holder into your new knotted planter and enjoy!

    PLANTS ONLY! NO FLAMES!
    just had to say it….you never know these days;)

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com
  • Make This: Fabric Storage Bins

    by Christie Sommers 

    16
    I have way too many “things” in little piles all over my workspace. It was time to do a little organizing so I made some storage bins and bowls in various sizes to store loose buttons, bobbins and more. They have really brightened up the place so I’d like to share them with you:)

    You will need:

    -a pencil compass
    -scrap paper
    -fabric (one outer and one liner)
    -fusible interfacing (you want something very rigid, I recommend Pellon Decor Bond Fusible)
    -an iron/ironing board
    -a sewing machine
    -scissors
    -ruler

    You will need to draft up a little pattern for this one. I made a bin that was 6.5″ in diameter and 4.5″ high. To figure out how long to cut your rectangular pieces you will need to break out the calculator… or your brain. To find the circumference of your base, multiply the diameter by 3.14. The circumference will be the length of your rectangular sides.
    In my case: 6.5″ diameter x 3.14= 20.14 ….
    Use this calculation to make your bin in any size.

    OR….

    You can just use my dimensions and make the same sized bin.

    Cut:
    (3) rectangles: 21″ long by 5″ high (1) liner, (1) outer, (1) interfacing
    (3) circles with 3.25″ radius (1) liner, (1) outer, (1) interfacing

    1 2 3 4 5

    You will iron on the interfacing to the backside of the outer fabric.
    Take the shiny adhesive side of the interfacing and line it up to the back of your outer fabric.
    Iron on holding firmly for 6 seconds to establish a good bond.
    Do the same for the circular outer fabric.

    6

    Now you will sew the side wall (rectangular piece) to the base (circular) for both the liner and the outer fabric.

    Pin as shown.

    8 7

    Straight stitch the liner wall to the liner base

    9

    Do the same for the outer wall and base making sure to place the fabric “right” sides together, right side being the printed side that you want to see on the outside when the bin is done.

    9.1

    Line up your two ends of the rectangular piece and stitch up the side wall. Trim

    10

    You should have two pieces now (liner and outer) that look like this….

    11

    Cut into the seam allowance around the base so that the basket sits evenly when assembled. Take care to not cut into your stitching.

    12

    Turn the liner inside out and fit (right sides together) into the outer piece.

    13

    Line up your seams and pin all the way around

    14 15

    Sew all the way around leaving a small section about 1.5″ unsewn. You will turn the whole bin right side out through this hole.

    When you turn it right side out, use your iron to get all of your seams looking nice and clean.
    I liked how it looked with a little of the liner as a trim at the top.

    Top stitch all the way around and be sure to carefully seal the opening with your top stitch.

    Toss in some sewing notions, or whatever bits you need to wrangle and enjoy!

    16 17

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com
  • Naturally Dyed Egg Tutorial

    Tutorial and Photos by Christie Sommers of West Oak Design

    Pic 6

    Here’s a fun little tutorial that you should be able to do for under $5… unless you use what you already have! Just about any vegetable, fruit or herb that will stain your clothes, will stain an egg.  For this tutorial I used red cabbage and blueberries for the blue, and turmeric powder for the yellow.  My original intention was to make a nice set of color gradient ombre dyed eggs but it didn’t exactly work out that way. I was able to somewhat achieve that effect with the blue ones, but the turmeric eggs seemed to stay about the same shade.  If you’re looking for perfect, evenly dyed eggs, this may not be for you. I personally love the earthy mottled effect you get from using natural dyes.Here are a few suggestions you can try:

    RED/PINK: beets,hibiscus tea, frozen or canned cherries, pomegranate, paprika
    YELLOW/GOLD: yellow onion skins, chamomile, turmeric, chili powder
    BLUE/PURPLE: red cabbage, blueberries (fresh, canned, or frozen), grape juice
    GREEN: spinach, dill

    *NOTE last year I used curry powder for the turmeric…. my eggs tasted like curry. If you’re into that.. go for it!

    Pic 1
    For the blue eggs I used:
    – 1/2 dozen hard boiled white eggs (to hard boil: cover eggs completely in cool water, bring to a boil, remove from heat and let sit covered for 7 minutes, then place in cold water to stop cooking process, drain and set aside in the fridge until your dye is ready)
    – 1/2 head of red cabbage cut into 1″ chunks
    *I had some blueberries in the freezer from last summer that were looking freezer burnt so I tossed them in too.
    – a large stock pot
    -mesh sieve or cheesecloth
    -4 cups water (distilled is recommended but I used tap water because that’s what I had and it worked out for me)
    *a lot of the resources I checked recommend using vinegar but when I used it last year, all of my eggshells became soft and weird… so I left it out this time and the shells stayed in tact.Start by adding the water & cabbage (& blueberries if you have ’em) into your pot and bring to a boil.
    Pic 3
    Reduce the heat to low and let simmer for at least 30-45 minutes. You will notice the liquid becoming opaque and the cabbage will start to look drained of its color.
    Pic 2
    At this point you can strain the solids by pouring through cheesecloth or a fine mesh strainer.You can reduce the liquid at this point making it more concentrated, OR proceed to the next step.

    Place the dye liquid into the fridge and let it cool.For an ombre effect:
    Place all eggs into the cooled dye liquid and place back in the fridge
    Every 15-30 minutes, remove one egg from the liquid.Otherwise, add all eggs to the dye liquid and let sit refrigerated until they reach the desired depth of color.

    *This method can be used for any of the vegetables, fruits, or herbs listed. If you would like to try this with the turmeric powder, Use 3 tablespoons turmeric to 2 cups of water and boil until the turmeric dissolves (this is the ratio that worked for me).

    Pic 4
    Your naturally dyed eggs will have an soft matte color. You can brush a light coat of vegetable oil on them for a nice shine that will really make the color pop.Hope you give this easy & inexpensive technique a try!————————————————————————————————————————————————
    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com
  • Christie’s Mini Weaving Tutorial (on a “junkmail” credit card loom)

    Tutorial and Photos by Christie Sommers 
    pic1
    You will need:
    picnumero1
    *An old card of the un-needed variety… pre-approved credit cards, price club cards, your old West Coast Video card… Just make sure it’s nice and firm, no flimsy paper ones.
    *A variety of string/yarn/twine. In this tutorial I am using a thin cotton cord for my warp (I’ll explain soon). For my weft I am using waxed cotton cord in black, thin gauge yarn in green, and more of the white cotton cord I used for the warp.
    *scissors
    *quilting needle (not shown)
    *ruler
    *pencil
    *toothpick, wooden skewer, or short section of brass tubing
    pic2
    Chances are, the card you are using is 2″ x 3.5″. Turn your card sideways so that the 2″ side is at the top and the bottom. Start by marking every 1/4″ across the top and bottom (see pic).  After all of your marks are made, come back with your scissors and make a small cut in each pencil marking. Cut about 1/4″ into the card each time trying to be consistent.
    You will now begin to lay down your weft. The weft is the base that you will be weaving in and out of. I started in the top left corner bringing the thin cotton cord through the first cut from back to front. Bring the string down to the first cut in the bottom left corner, wrapping around the back and coming back up through the 2nd cut on the bottom left corner (see pics).
    pic3 pic4 pic5
    Continue this motion wrapping back and forth until you get to the end. You will have a tail hanging from your starting and end points. Make sure these tails are at least twice as long as your needle.
    Now you are ready to start weaving!
    I threaded my quilting needle with the black cord and wove under one, over one from left to right. When you come back for your return pass make sure you do the opposite of what you did on the previous pass. If you went under the warp on the last pass, go over the next time. It sounds more confusing than it really is… see pic.
    pic6
    pic8
    Continue for as long as you’d like before changing colors.
    pic9
    To change colors/yarn simply trim your previous weft (black cord) leaving a tail that is at least twice as long as your needle. Begin weaving the next color through starting on the opposite side of the previous weft’s “tail”.
    pic10
    Continue weaving and changing color/yarn as desired until you simply cannot fit any more rows. You can use your needle to push each row up to the top so they fit snugly together.
    You’re probably wondering what to do with all of those little tails hanging out of the sides of your weaving. Some people leave them as a deliberate design choice. For this weaving, I am tucking these little tails in for a nice finished edge.
    To tuck: starting at the top left, thread the first tail onto your needle. Tie the tail to the first string of warp and slide the needle down through the loops of the weft carefully trimming the tail and letting it slide back slightly into the loops so that it is hidden.
    pic11 pic12
    Once all of your tails are tucked in, you can stop here or add fringe if you like.
    For the fringe: Because this is such a small weaving, I am going with a very simple fringe. Cut seven 4″ pieces of the green yarn.
    Thread the first one onto your needle and run the needle through the bottom left warp loop.
    pic13 pic14
    Line up the ends of the 4″ piece of yarn and tie it into a knot, sliding the knot snugly up against the bottom of the weaving before tightening.
    Repeat across the remaining white warp loops with the remaining 4″ yarn pieces.
    Do a final trim across the bottom of your fringe.
    Finish your weaving by lining up a 8″ piece of black string with your toothpick/skewer/tubing and thread it through the top warp loops. Tie a knot in your black string & you can easily hang it on a nail. Heck, you can even use a longer string and make it into a necklace… go nuts.
    You’re finished!
    Once you get the hang of the simple act of weaving one over, one under…. take to the internet or your local library and research some new techniques!
    *Disclaimer: I am not a trained weaver. I am self taught. Most people start with the fringe first and work their way up.  Starting at the top works for me… so that is how this tutorial goes;)
    Enjoy!

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com

  • Christie’s Paint Chip Wall Art DIY

    Photos and Tutorial by Christie Sommers

    Photo 6

    You will need:

    *paint samples from your local hardware/paint store
    *a circle punch (found in the scrap booking section of your nearest craft store). I used a 5/8” punch.
    *a glue stick (I prefer Elmer’s Craft Bond)
    *a sheet of card stock (this is what you will glue your circles to)
    *ruler
    *pencil
    *a picture frame if you would like to display your finished project

    Start off by punching out your circles.  For my 4-1/2” x 7” collage I used 161 circles. Arrange your circles by color in 3 piles: lightest colors, mid range, and darkest.

    Photo 1 - Copy Photo 2 - Copy

    Take your piece of card stock. You are going to draft out a grid so you can line up your circles nice and straight. Because my circles are 5/8”, I went up one side of the card stock marking every 5/8″.  Repeat on the other side of the card stock and you now have the start & finish point of each line.

    Photo 3 - Copy

    Once your lines are drawn, start at the bottom of your card stock and glue a random mix of your darkest circles across the first line.

    The next row will be placed between your pencil lines. Place the first circle of row 2 between the first two circles in row 1 (see pic). Every other row is staggered giving you a fish scale pattern.

    Photo 4 - Copy

    Continue gluing rows, going from dark to light, until you reach the end of your desired finished project.

    Photo 5

    If you want straight edges, you will need to do some trimming. I trimmed off the two sides and top of mine. The bottom of my collage will give you an idea of what it will look like if you decide not to trim the edges.

    Let the glue dry for at least 10-15 minutes before trimming.

    To trim, I used a straight edge ruler, an X-acto knife and my cutting mat. If you don’t have a cutting mat/x-acto… you can take a ruler and line it up along the edge you want to trim, draw a pencil line marking where you will cut, and simply trim with scissors along your pencil line.

    Frame & enjoy!

    Photo 7 - Copy

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    Christie Sommers is the designer and maker behind West Oak Design. She handcrafts small batch and one of a kind goods for home, women, and kids in her Wyndmoor, Pa studio.www.westoakdesign.com

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